We've been huge fans of David Koma's work since we saw his London Fashion Week debut at the Central Saint Martins Fashon MA show back in 2009. With his first Topshop capsule collection now instore and as a recpient of the NEWGEN scheme that we sponsor, we've become really close with him over the last few seasons and couldn't wait to see what he'd send down the catwalk for AW11.
When we spoke to David on the phone last week, he told us to expect something different and different it was! Although the designers' signature body-con, beautifully-cut silhouettes remained, David's use of embroidery, layered laser-cut patterns, bright spot motifs and vivid digital prints gave his work a fresh, graphic spin for AW11.
Looking to the avant-garde Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama, for inspiration, David became interested in her obsession with repitition and pattern. Through his experimentation with embroidery and laser-cut patterns in decadent cashmere wool and the softest Nappa leather, David created his own take on the distorted and inistinguishable patterns that he fell in love with while researching for his latest collection.
The expertly created circular and curved seams he used to emphasise the female form – all 50s-esque tiny waists, high necks and below-the-knee hemlines – also added to the eccentric and eclectic look that David created for AW11. It was if the lady who'd comissioned his austere pieces had gone mad half way through the process and dip-dyed all her furs in bold brights.
David's collaboration with the photographer, Oleg Duo, also saw the designer use vivid digital prints for the first time which really added to the hallucinatory feel of his collection. Juxtaposed wih bright polka dots, furry pom poms, supple leather inserts, sheer panels and brightly speckled boucle, it was all a bit off-the-wall but in a totally desirable way that will have people talking about this collection well after Fashion Week is over.
Styled by the lovely Kim Howell – she was beaming after the show – it's no surprise that the thick jet-black streaks in the models' hair, as well as the shoes designed by Alain Qulici especially for David, completed the graphic concept of the collection so well. Well done team Koma! We loved it.
Now we just can't wait to hear what David has to say about this collection in his Q&A with Melanie Rickey in our Oxford Circus store tomorrow. If you want to come, or post a question for David to answer, all the details are here.