Gorgeous red-lipped Liv Tyler and Chloe Sevigny were sat front row, excited as the rest of us for Proenza Schouler to start. For AW11, design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez didn't disappoint. Focusing on textiles and construction techniques in a bold-coloured and beautiful collection inspired by Native American arts and crafts, their AW11 show was an absolute hit.
Explaining backstage after the show that they had been on a road-trip out west, through Santa Fe and New Mexico, Utah and Wyoming, McCollough said the experience led them to an interest in Native American culture - its art, textiles and handicrafts.
Wanting to make clothing like "Native American blankets", and with design features drawn from early American textiles and construction – Proenza Schouler fused both expertly with their signature modern aesthetic, resulting in completely covetable dresses, separates and outerwear – we fell in love with all the clothing on the spot! The collection, made up of graphic combinations of saturated colour against black, began with a laid-back statement look: an elegant black blazer over a yellow waxed-leather top, paired with wool jacquard Native American patterned trousers – and from there, grew rapidly in detail and intensity.
Models in minimal sandals weaved through the fluorescent-lit maze-like catwalk in elaborate two-tone macramé skirts with flapper-like fringing and lavish velvet hand-painted geometric print confections fit for the red-carpet. Embroidered multi-colour jacquard dresses, separates and bold cutaway all-over Navaho-inspired patterned dresses were key, as were experimental textures and colours – in particular on patent crimson and mustard shearling coats.