In a word, Olivier Theyskens vision for Theory’s AW11 collection was beautiful. The look was up-scale grunge, with ankle-length sweeping skirts and dresses, delicate prints and sultry skin-exposing lace, fused with a Bloomsbury poetess attitude. Victoriana-like necklines were high and intimidating on a series of severe garments featuring cinched-waists and fitted bodices, while graceful floor-sweeping print and sheer organza gowns (provocatively revealing a lot of skin) hinted at bohemian grandeur.
Models with harsh scraped back hair and dark lips stepped out in sculptural, rich-textured winter attire that appeared decidedly European. Tones were muted and romantic, and easy shapes in delicate fabrics were cleverly layered, while outerwear appeared in countless styles. Sumptuous cable-knit roll-neck sweaters warmed the runway, as did oversized tailored mac’s and anorak’s, tweed trench’s, leather and luxurious fur jackets and boxy 50s-inspired overcoats.
This was a collection for winter - textures were cosy and comfortable, and trans-seasonal separates and dresses could be endlessly layered (and then worn separately as spring arrives). Overall a particularly stylish approach to coping with a harsh European - or New York - winter!