Here at Topshop, we're huge fans of David Koma. After working with him on a collaboration last winter, we couldn't have been happier when he was awarded his first solo show at London Fashion Week through our sponsorship of NEWGEN.
For the last two seasons, David has shown back-to-back with Holly Fulton so his debut show at the Topshop showspace on Tuesday marked a new chapter for David as a designer, and David Koma as a brand. As would be expected, David was nervous backstage, but as his first SS12 looks made their way down the catwalk to the beat of tribal drums, we knew that this show was going to be a hit with both the press and buyers.
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins just three years ago, David has remained focused, continuing to explore the body-concious silhouettes which first brought his graduate collection to the style sets' attention. And while his SS12 collection may have remained fiercely tailored, it also felt decidedly fresh.
Departing from black, bright white ensembles opened David's show. Interspersed with flashes of tropical colours – lemon, fuschia, and turquoise - and embellished with iridescent Perspex discs designed in collaboration with jewellery designer Sarah Angold – the final result was absolutely stunning.
Inspired by Polynesian tribal paint and the artist Jim Koon, David's collection had an exotic, far-way feel which we'll definitely be seeing a lot of next summer. Graphic, geometric patterns with a minimal, almost sci-fi allure were set into his light wool and devore dresses so they appeared to be painted onto his models' bodies.
Peplums made of intricate leather fringing and pleats enclosed the waist and added to David's signature vision of a strong, powerful woman. His final looks made up of contrasting black and lemon shades and covered in iridescent sequins, were especially striking.
While we'd never say no to a David Koma dress, what we loved most were his skin-tight leg-lengthening trousers which were shown teamed with close-fitting, culptural waistcoats and jackets. As he told us backstage after his show, these marked something new for him. Watch this space – we have a feeling that this is still only the beginning for David Koma.