He may have named his dog Stevie (after the Fleetwood Mac goddess) but this season, Thakoon embraced Audrey Hepburn as his muse. Except, well, not really. Yes, the models had sweet little ponytails and red lips, but the clothes – although delicate in shape and alluding to Hepburn with satin boatneck dresses and dusty rose feather boleros – had a much sharper edge.

Maybe that's because Thakoon's current obsession is the graphic neon signage in Amsterdam's Red Light District – he even used an abstracted version of it as his image woven into the fabrics. Meanwhile, there were plenty of hot pink and tomato red combos, enforcing the idea that in 2012, color blocking is sticking around as a major trend. And although she's stuck mostly to black for now, Rooney Mara seems like the actual, if subconscious, muse for this collection, which seems about right considering she's, you know, perfect.