We always look forward to the Meadham Kirchhoff show. The duo made up of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff live deep in a parallel reality; a world created by them, for them – and which twice a year they choose to share with us through the medium of their clothes. This season they had dreamed up a Gothic fantasy of ghostly doll-like girls drifting around a dark ruined mansion, haunted by a terrible beauty. The clothes were amongst the most intricate we’ve seen this week: millefeuille layers of lace, silks so heavily beaded that they bought couture to mind, and bold balloon-sleeved trapeze coats in opulent rare skins. It left the audience breathless, with their hearts in their throats, wanting more.
Front Row… Mrs Burnstein of Browns fame arrived bright and early for the show, before being joined at her perch by international editors taking in the few last shows before heading to Milan.
The girls on the catwalk… beautiful walkin, talkin, livin’ dolls.
The collection in five words… layered, bedchamber, ornate, fantasy, gothic.
Playlist… A soundtrack of sharpening knives and screeching violin chords. It was straight out of a gothic horror movie and had the whole audience slightly on edge – especially when the heartbeat sounds came in. Jeffrey Hinton of 1980’s club Taboo fame put the music together from his own personal archive – not sure we’d be into playing those tracks on a night in at home!
What we loved… the ’30s style bugle-beaded bias-cut gowns, the laser-cut latex bustiers, the Dutch lace baby-dolls and the weighty box-pleated midi-skirts.
Hero piece… How to choose? The gold python trapeze coat was outstanding, and we reckon we’ll spot at least one of them outside the shows next season.
Inspired by… Having a broken heart, being vulnerable, but also slightly unhinged… eek!
End notes… Meadham Kirchhoff is THE one show at London Fashion Week that is likely to move people to tears, and this season was no different. Rarely do we see such intricate workmanship, such depth of historic research and such an overriding sense of melancholy.
Watch the Meadham Kirchhoff show live from the Topshop Showspace here!