All of fashion’s power players were out in force at Simone Rocha’s AW4 show: from Anna Wintour who came backstage to view the collection pre-show (‘It’s wonderful, well done,’ we heard her saying to the designer), to the coffee queue out front which consisted of Suzy Menkes, Paula Reed and My Theresa’s Justin O’Shea jostling for a cappuccino. And they weren’t disappointed: Rocha sent out her most assured collection to date.

Who: Simone Rocha AW14

Where: In the magnificent turbine hall at the Tate Modern, where this season’s Topshop show space is based.

Playlist: As usual, Simone’s brother Max curated the music for the show, and this time he had chosen a Dublin band called Cloud Castle Lake to provide thumping indie-electro which almost seemed to make the turbine hall shake.

The collection in five words: Little rebel princess run riot.

What we loved: The amazing fabrications – embroidered plastic lace, double bonded wool and hand-crafted tartan backed with tulle – it was a feast for the eyes and for the tactile senses. Such quality fabrics meant that Rocha ran wild with the structure of the garments – there were wildly oversized fills on coats, exaggerated panniers on party dresses and seriously haute sculptural sleeves. All this flounce was toned down with elongated pointed flats – the perfect foil to a princess crinoline.

Hero Piece: A gleaming forest-green cocktail dress made of embroidered plastic on lace, trimmed with pearls and bustling with oversized panniers – we want to go to the ball in this, please!

Inspired by: Simone had been looking at paintings of the ill-fated Ann Boleyn in the National Gallery and was inspired by her regal portraits and extravagant dress!