WHO: NEWGEN recipient 1205 – aka designer Paula Gerbase – aka queen of androgynous tailoring. Paula earnt her (pin)stripes at iconic Savile Row tailors Hardy Amies and Kilgour before setting up her own label.
WHAT: The designer’s SS15 catwalk show, shown as part of the Topshop sponsored NEWGEN initiative.
WHERE: The London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine – transformed from medical training ground to an industrial grey-walled catwalk space.
FRONT ROW: The guest list was kept tight-knit with a handful of top editors including Grazia’s Gemma Hayward and every UK newspaper from the Indie to the Times – each given a handmade blanket on their seat. Snug!
COLLECTION IN 5 WORDS: Precise, tailored, deconstructed, stripped-back, fresh.
PLAYLIST: An eerie soundtrack of minimalist bass lines and off-beat orchestral notes.
WHAT WE LOVED: The totally new take on tailoring – wide oversized culottes, irregular windowpane prints and asymmetric pleated shifts were suiting staples taken to a whole new level.
INSPIRED BY: Paula’s starting point was abstract painter Agnes Martin and her stark depictions of the desert. And she also looked to Maths: “I was led by the mathematics of nature – the reality of imperfection. Everything is deconstructed but with total precision.”
HERO PIECE: The long-line tabard top, cut from slate-grey leather and sliced up the sides.
HAIR & BEAUTY: Super-slick ponytails fastened with leather bands at the nape, brushed-out brows and high-shine cheekbones.
WHAT THE SHOW NOTES SAID: “A study of the tension between perfection and imbalance.”
WHAT THE EDITORS SAID:
“Stunning simplicity.” @ChloeBeeney
“Easy understated elegance” @BrownsFashion
Photos by Stylonylon. Words Holly Swayne.