WHO: Marques’Almeida, the Portuguese duo best loved for their raw-edged ’90 denim. These NEWGENers are also our next designer collab – look out for it hitting Topshop next month.

WHERE: The Topshop Show Space in King’s Cross.

THE FRONT ROW: London’s coolest creatives, forming a sea of coloured fur coats from the designers’ last collection. We spotted It-girls Chelsea Leyland and Phoebe Collings-James sitting alongside fashion heavy-weights like Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Masanet and the BFC’s Caroline Rush.

COLLECTION IN 5 WORDS: Raw, rainbow, sheer, deconstructed, denim.

INSPIRED BY: “It’s the most abstract we’ve ever been”, Martha told us backstage. “We went in a new direction this season, looking more at shapes and lines than our usual ’90s references. First we became completely obsessed with all-black (inspired by an old i-D shot of Angela Linvall), then moved towards the bright rainbow colours.”

WHAT WE LOVED: We want to wear it all – from the bleached-out frayed denim to the noughties-pink leather and the patchwork rainbow sheers. Plus those inimitable little details like oversized tabs on sleeves and subtly metallic finishes on dark denim.

HERO PIECE: A citrus green leather dress – styled with purple snakeskin sunnies and platform clogs. We need it, now.

HAIR & BEAUTY: “It’s a girl coming back from a rave” said MAC’s Terry Barber. Raw skin with no foundation (just a bit of concealer), with pastel eye colours in mint, coral and powder blue. Duffy from Vidal Sassoon made hair big and messy. “I used hair pieces from a show I did yesterday and spent last night in my hotel backcombing and stamping on them to make these scruffy clumps to add on!”

WHAT THE SHOW NOTES SAID:  “The design duo takes a break from ’90s references to offer their boldest, yet most private collection.”


@susiebubble: “Rainbow wave @_marquesalmeida.”

@the pop (PPO magazine): “Swarovski embellishment and bold colours at @_marquesalmeida. Long live the ’90s”

Photos by Jason Lloyd-Evans. Words by Holly Swayne.