Lulu Kennedy is back with another dastardly trio of London talent, with Ed Marler now into his second season and newcomers Caitlin Price and Mary Benson. Having mentored the likes of Jonathon Saunders and Gareth Pugh, as well as current NEWGEN recipients Marques’Almeida and Ryan Lo, we expected big things from this triptych of designers – and they did not disappoint. We spoke to the two new girls from the collective about their inspiration and new season aesthetic.
Hailing from the hallowed halls of Central St Martins, Caitlin’s debut collection merges duchess satin tracksuits with ultra-feminine frill and appliqué detailing, creating a look that is both totally referential yet completely new. Synthetic pops of ice blue, cherry soda and aqua sat amongst a more traditional streetwear palette of navy, white and black, which paired with box fresh Nike Air Max kept the looks grounded at street level. Fun, sassy and wearable – we’re reaching for our shellsuits.
Breaking talent Mary Benson cites ’70s album cover art and the ethereal Kate Bush as the main influences behind her kaleidoscopic debut collection – and we got it. A welcome twist on the current seventies trend, the rock ‘n’ roll runaway vibe was met with almost Pre-Raphaelite detailing, seen in the stained glass motifs and ladylike silhouette. With hallucinogenic sequins, towering platforms and bell sleeved blouses, Mary’s collection encompasses that just-stepped-off-the-tour-bus cool – because who wants to be with the band, when you can be in the band.
Stay tuned for our report of our third Fashion East recipient Ed Marler tomorrow…
Words: Charlotte Lauren Wood. Photos: Jason Lloyd-Evans